Since a little more than a decade Surfing has become a mainstream sport, practiced by millions of people from everywhere in the world. Surfing spots have been discovered all around the globe thanks to satellites images. An agressive brands marketing has been pushing and pushing in our heads the idea to become a "Free" surfer. As a result now, natural, spots are over crowded, even your "secret peak" can become a stressful experience somedays.
I remember just 15 years ago, waking up with my son early in the morning and being the first to open the session at 7:00am. Nowadays, it never happens again. it's just unbelievable, surfers are everywhere, everyday in every conditions good or bad.
We went to surf in southern California last summer, no needs to say that waves are black of people, but in reality these people are well educated and globally there is no tension in the water. you can catch your wave and you will discuss with your neighbor, everyone says hello... I think because surfing is a very old activity there, rules are well established and respected. Unfortunately in our region, (the southwest of France) bad manners are very common in the water, of course you will get your fight against a Dork one day, it ruins your head and can be worst than your day job !
Is freedom gone?
Hopefully there is some solutions and artificial waves will become one of them in the near future.
Kelly Slater has been working hard and I have to admit, the result is mesmerising. I really hope that the young mutant generation will prefer the perfection of artificial waves to the uncertain nature. The future is on !